Tuesday, June 21, 2016
Final Thoughts
The past eleven days in Portland, Jamaica have been arguably the most rewarding, eye-opening, incredible days of my life. It was a true adventure, and I am so grateful for all the amazing friends I've met who all share the same passion for music. The best part, without a doubt, was going into the schools and meeting the energetic, kind, helpful, loving students and sharing music with them. I already miss them so much! Saying goodbye to them was so difficult. I am so happy that we had the chance to bring more music and cheer to their already cheerful school. They've taught us so much--from showing us new games at recess to showing us how to better care and love for one another. We will surely remember this week forever and I will miss these kiddos with their contagious energy and their contagious smiles so much. This trip was definitely unforgettable, and I am so grateful to have had this incredible opportunity.
Daily Grub
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| The fruit stand on our street--my favorite was the pineapple and papaya! |
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| Rastafarian all-natural meal from Sazy's [from top left, counterclockwise]: rice, soy chunks, ackee (kind of like scrambled eggs), and bread fruit (tastes exactly like bread!) |
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| Drinking from a coconut |
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| My first meal--curry goat with rice. It turned my mouth green! |
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| A typical meal from the Jerk Center on our street--festival bread (like fried tubes of dough) and 1/4 jerk chicken (like spicy barbecue) |
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| Jerk pork and pumpkin rice |
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| A fancier version of jerk chicken and festival |
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| A fancier version of curry goat with rice |
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| A passionfruit (so tangy and delicious!) that we picked in the jungle |
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| Festival bread, fish, roasted plantains, mixed greens, potatoes and carrots, and bread fruit |
Saturday 6/13/2016
A journal entry:
"Today's our last day here. I can't believe it--it doesn't feel real. The whole trip feels like a blur, a crazy whirlwind. This morning, after ackee and sawfish for breakfast, we headed to Port Antonio to visit the shops there.
The shops were great. It was an indoor/outdoor market, with a lot of very touristy stands (many of the vendors were selling the same t-shirts, keychains, etc). I ended up getting some really neat souvenirs and gifts: 1) A cheap wooden flute, 2) A shaker, 3) A tiny djembe drum, 4) A bracelet for my mom, 5) A keychain for my brother, 6) Leather 'slippers' (sandals) for my sister, and 7) Mixed CD's.
Getting the mixtapes was my favorite part. We left the main market area and crossed the street to enter a small shop where many people were stannic around, listening to music played by the shipowner. He was dancing around, really feeling the music. When we walked in, he started telling us about all the genres of music prevalent in Jamaica today (i.e. dance hall, t-culture), artists (i.e. Vibes Kartel, the most influential Jamaican musician since Bob Marley, who is the leader of dance hall music and is miles ahead of any other artist--he is recording all of his songs from jail because he murdered someone), and the meanings of the songs (some are political, others are just made for dancing). I ended up getting three CD's for $300J, an amazing price
When we got back to the huts, we went to the fruit stand up the street (I got fresh pineapple) and to the jerk center to get festival bread. We ate our food in the huts (I saved some of it for breakfast tomorrow). After packing, I headed down to the beach. We swam for a while and talked to some surfers, and admired the incredibly blue water. Later, I did yoga on my favorite cliff (the most serene practice I have ever completed), passed the drum test, and ate curry goat for dinner.
We have our drum performance tonight, then our trip is over. I can't believe it went so, so fast. I just stood on the cliff trying to take it all in today because I can honestly say, I've never seen a view so breathtakingly beautiful. Watching the vast sea from up here is incredibly powerful--it really puts into perspective how small we are; God made an amazing creation. I can almost feel God up here, and I am awestruck.
Update: the drumming went really well! We took our drums into town and set up by the jerk shops in a circle. We handed out egg shakers to the crowd of local families who came to watch--the whole town was there. We played the rhythms we practiced--Nyabinghi, Dinki mini, Etu, Kuku, Kpanlogo, and Bruckins and sang a few favorite traditional Jamaican songs ('If I had the wings of a dove,' 'Hold 'em, Joe,' 'By the Rivers of Babylon,' 'Mango Time,' 'Solace Market--Fie go buy banana,' 'Go down Emmanuel Road,' and we finished with the National Anthem, which got a lot of enthusiastic applause). The performance was exhilarating (I played on my brand new, handmade Nyabinghi drum) and it was an amazing way to end the trip."
"Today's our last day here. I can't believe it--it doesn't feel real. The whole trip feels like a blur, a crazy whirlwind. This morning, after ackee and sawfish for breakfast, we headed to Port Antonio to visit the shops there.
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| The shops at Port Antonio |
Getting the mixtapes was my favorite part. We left the main market area and crossed the street to enter a small shop where many people were stannic around, listening to music played by the shipowner. He was dancing around, really feeling the music. When we walked in, he started telling us about all the genres of music prevalent in Jamaica today (i.e. dance hall, t-culture), artists (i.e. Vibes Kartel, the most influential Jamaican musician since Bob Marley, who is the leader of dance hall music and is miles ahead of any other artist--he is recording all of his songs from jail because he murdered someone), and the meanings of the songs (some are political, others are just made for dancing). I ended up getting three CD's for $300J, an amazing price
When we got back to the huts, we went to the fruit stand up the street (I got fresh pineapple) and to the jerk center to get festival bread. We ate our food in the huts (I saved some of it for breakfast tomorrow). After packing, I headed down to the beach. We swam for a while and talked to some surfers, and admired the incredibly blue water. Later, I did yoga on my favorite cliff (the most serene practice I have ever completed), passed the drum test, and ate curry goat for dinner. We have our drum performance tonight, then our trip is over. I can't believe it went so, so fast. I just stood on the cliff trying to take it all in today because I can honestly say, I've never seen a view so breathtakingly beautiful. Watching the vast sea from up here is incredibly powerful--it really puts into perspective how small we are; God made an amazing creation. I can almost feel God up here, and I am awestruck.
Update: the drumming went really well! We took our drums into town and set up by the jerk shops in a circle. We handed out egg shakers to the crowd of local families who came to watch--the whole town was there. We played the rhythms we practiced--Nyabinghi, Dinki mini, Etu, Kuku, Kpanlogo, and Bruckins and sang a few favorite traditional Jamaican songs ('If I had the wings of a dove,' 'Hold 'em, Joe,' 'By the Rivers of Babylon,' 'Mango Time,' 'Solace Market--Fie go buy banana,' 'Go down Emmanuel Road,' and we finished with the National Anthem, which got a lot of enthusiastic applause). The performance was exhilarating (I played on my brand new, handmade Nyabinghi drum) and it was an amazing way to end the trip."
Thoughts about cultural music vs. music education in Jamaica
Music is so prevalent in Jamaican culture. Drummers have an elevated social status over normal citizens, and they use song and dance in ceremonies, celebrations, and church. The styles of drumming and singing all have such a rich cultural background, stemming from the traditions of their African ancestors, and musical figures in society are revered.
With music having a huge presence in Jamaican culture, I am so surprised that schools do not have any music classes. The students sing during their morning devotion, but other than that, they have no exposure to music throughout the school day. Some students learn from their parents or grandparents, or take drum lessons. Most do not. While teaching, I noticed that many of the students had a natural affinity for music, and had very good rhythm. It is clear that the music is inside of them (it runs through their veins). I cannot even imagine the kinds of wonderful things these kids could be able to do with a music program. Yet, there is no money for extra classes in these schools.
In fact, the number one producer of Dance Hall music in Jamaica (and the most successful Jamaican musician next to Bob Marley), Vibes Kartel, is currently in jail for murder. However, he is allowed to record new music from jail because the Jamaicans view him as crucial to the Dance Hall genre. From the recording studio in jail, Kartel produces new music that speaks openly about many controversial political and social problems of the present day.
In Jamaica, music is what brings people together and allows people to tell their stories, discuss politics and raise awareness for social issues, and celebrate. On our street in Boston Bay, people got together to dance every night. They set up a sound system with a DJ and welcomed us visitors into their festivities and taught us how to dance in the "Jamaican way."
On our hike in St. Mary's, our tour guide Lion sang the entire time about everything he saw and everything he thought. If we passed a papaya tree, he sang about papayas. If we passed an antidote plant, he would sing about antidotes. Often, he would see something neat and sing "Check it out, yuh wanna check it out" for minutes at a time. When we got to the falls, he sang about their beauty. When someone laughed, he sang "Whatcha laughing about, why do you laugh so?"
He asked at one point if someone else in the group had anything to sing about. We got shy, avoided eye contact, and said no. Later, I was able to talk with Lion one-on-one. He told me that Americans have to think to much to sing...they are often afraid to be vulnerable and sing without a plan or without notes on a page. Jamaicans, he said, just sing what's on their mind. Singing allows them to release tension and lets them be honest with those around them. It is healing.
Many students on my trip study music therapy. After long days working at the infirmary or at the homeless shelter, they would come back refreshed and satisfied. They said that music therapy is so much easier and progress comes so much more quickly in Jamaica because Jamaicans already believe in the process. They believe in their hearts that music has healing powers.
With music having a huge presence in Jamaican culture, I am so surprised that schools do not have any music classes. The students sing during their morning devotion, but other than that, they have no exposure to music throughout the school day. Some students learn from their parents or grandparents, or take drum lessons. Most do not. While teaching, I noticed that many of the students had a natural affinity for music, and had very good rhythm. It is clear that the music is inside of them (it runs through their veins). I cannot even imagine the kinds of wonderful things these kids could be able to do with a music program. Yet, there is no money for extra classes in these schools.
At the end of the trip, we gave donations (3 drums and a box of recorders) to the school. They were so grateful and said they would try to keep music going. The principal said she knows that music is an important supplement to her students' education, but never knew before how to implement it, or where to get the funds. Hopefully, they will put these donations to good use. I hope that the older kids pass on the drumming they learned to the younger kids and that they take out the recorders every once in a while to play "Hot Cross Buns." I hope that the passion for music that runs in their blood gives them an outlet when money runs low or other hard times come upon them. Most of all, I hope that these kids never forget the week that we brought music into their school, because I know that I will never forget the week that they brought joy to us.
Friday 6/17/2016
A journal entry:
"Today was our very last day in the schools. We arrived, greeted the kids, and attended their morning devotion. Then, we set up under our trees for our only lesson of the day--one lesson for the little kids attending the basic school next door. The kids were 4-5 years old, and the lesson was very much fun. I played the guitar and ran shaker activities.
Then, we brought our donations to the principal (we donated three drums and a box of recorders so they can hopefully establish some sort of music program). She was so incredibly excited and grateful. She could not believe that we were leaving some of the instruments with the school and couldn't sop thanking us and hugging us. She said they will definitely use everything (especially the recorders) to keep music going in their school, and welcomed us back anytime. I would love to come back sometime to see if they are successful in putting bits of music in their curriculum and even help the teachers figure out ways to use music in their classrooms.
When our driver came, we had to say goodbye to the kids, which was so sad. They kept asking us when we were going to come back, and it was so hard to tell them, 'maybe never.' We got a lot of hugs and notes and cute goodbye's and I teared up a little. I'll never forget them and their energy and zest for life, as well as their unwavering love and helpfulness. They are truly incredible kids. I would love to come back, but I honestly don't know if I will ever get the chance again.
After school, we went to lunch at an excellent sit-down jerk place that looked over the town of Boston Bay. I had jerk chicken, festival bread, and fruit punch.
Later, we went down to the beach to relax and swim. Laura and I swam across the bay to the caves on the other side. We couldn't explore because it was too treacherous over there, but we saw the caves and they were really neat. The swim back was a bit taxing, and I spent the afternoon laying in a hammock and accidentally falling asleep under the trees. It was wonderful.
Tonight, after dinner and drumming, Eric is bringing in Kumina drummers to us--drummers that play in nine-night (wake) ceremonies. The ceremonies are parties/celebrations in the yard of the deceased person that include the whole village and involve a lot of dancing. The Kumina drummers play all night long, with no rest. Before playing, they sprinkle the drums with white rum (their equivalent of Holy water) and rub it on their hands. The beat they play exists only in the Portland and St. Thomas parishes of Jamaica, and nowhere else in the world. The beat is known to bring people into a trance-like state called a Myal, during which it is said that the deceased person's spirit takes over the entranced person and makes them do crazy, sometimes super-human things (i.e. climb trees backwards, eat glass). The beat is repetitive and has hypnotic powers--especially because it is played all night long.
Eric said he was playing at a set-up for a nine-night one time and felt woozy, so he left the drum to rest. The grieving widow came up to him and said, 'We knew this would happen?' 'Why?' 'Because my husband didn't like white men.' This culture and their customs and beliefs are so intriguing and I am excited to experience the Kumina drumming tradition tonight."
Later...
"The Kumina drummers were amazing. The night was so fun. They set up with two people sitting on drums across from each other One of them played the same rhythm over and over:
"Today was our very last day in the schools. We arrived, greeted the kids, and attended their morning devotion. Then, we set up under our trees for our only lesson of the day--one lesson for the little kids attending the basic school next door. The kids were 4-5 years old, and the lesson was very much fun. I played the guitar and ran shaker activities.
When our driver came, we had to say goodbye to the kids, which was so sad. They kept asking us when we were going to come back, and it was so hard to tell them, 'maybe never.' We got a lot of hugs and notes and cute goodbye's and I teared up a little. I'll never forget them and their energy and zest for life, as well as their unwavering love and helpfulness. They are truly incredible kids. I would love to come back, but I honestly don't know if I will ever get the chance again.
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| Where we ate |
After school, we went to lunch at an excellent sit-down jerk place that looked over the town of Boston Bay. I had jerk chicken, festival bread, and fruit punch.
Later, we went down to the beach to relax and swim. Laura and I swam across the bay to the caves on the other side. We couldn't explore because it was too treacherous over there, but we saw the caves and they were really neat. The swim back was a bit taxing, and I spent the afternoon laying in a hammock and accidentally falling asleep under the trees. It was wonderful.
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| Kumina drummers |
Eric said he was playing at a set-up for a nine-night one time and felt woozy, so he left the drum to rest. The grieving widow came up to him and said, 'We knew this would happen?' 'Why?' 'Because my husband didn't like white men.' This culture and their customs and beliefs are so intriguing and I am excited to experience the Kumina drumming tradition tonight."
Later...
"The Kumina drummers were amazing. The night was so fun. They set up with two people sitting on drums across from each other One of them played the same rhythm over and over:
The lower pitch was an open drum. The higher pitch was created when the player placed his foot on the edge of the head of the drum to raise the sound. The other drummer soloed the whole time. The solo drummer is said to be completely responsible for the action of the deceased person's spirit. Then, there was a person sitting behind the solo drum, playing this rhythm on the sides of the back of the drum with sticks (Catta Sticks):
And, there were two people playing that same rhythm on shakers. There was also a blind man playing a grater on the same rhythm. They were all singing, and the words basically meant 'leave us alone, duppie (spirit), because you are dead.' The final element is dancing. There were people dancing all around in a circle around the drummers.
One of the Jamaican men (an older shaker player with very baggy clothes) pulled me into the circle to dance. He was very much fun to dance with and spun me around a lot. After I finished dancing with him, I stayed on the dance floor (without shoes--no one was wearing them) and danced with everyone in a group The Jamaican girls joined us and tried to teach us their moves. It was the most fun I've ever had dancing! It was such a fun night. I wore a flowy skirt that was so fun to dance and twirl in. The night was truly a blast."
Tuesday 6/14/2016 to Thursday 6/16/2016
A journal entry:
"The next three days in the schools went just as well, if not better, than the first. As the students got to know us better, they became more response to our methods. Tuesday was our second singing and drumming lesson for each grade, so we were able to add some really neat aspects to our lessons. For example, we sang 'By the Rivers of Babylon' with the Nyabinghi drumming patterns we learned the day before, and we added dancing to the Dinki Mini beat. In our singing lesson, we added harmonies to 'By the Rivers of Babylon,' a solo part to 'Mango Time,' layered parts to 'The Lion Sleeps Tonight,' and a round to 'Oh What a Day.'
We also were able to teach the second grade class today. The lesson was a bit different--we stood in a circle and sang classic children's songs like 'The Wheels on the Bus,' 'The Hokey Pokey,' 'If You're Happy and You Know It,' (so cute!) and 'The Itsy Bitsy Spider.' I led 'Row Row Row Your Boat' and 'Whatta Come A Mi Eye.' Then, they got to solo on the big drum for a little before playing shaker games with us.
Wednesday was just like Tuesday.
Today (Thursday), we simply did recorder lessons all day. It was difficult for a lot of kids, but I think they ended up catching onto some of the concepts and had a fun time. We've been racing a lot at recess, playing handshake games, taking lots of pictures (the kids really, really love using the crazy Snapchat filters), and just hanging out with the kids is such a blessing. And, they still love braiding our hair. so cute and this has been an amazing experience so far.
They're a little hard to understand sometimes because they speak quickly and softly with an accent, but we are able to communicate well. All the kids are
They all jump up and down and are very happy when we arrive and gather around our bus to help bring in the supplies, then get very sad at the end of the day when we leave. Tomorrow will definitely be tough, because it will be our last day for good.
This week, we also got to watch some of the kids practice for the Mini Miss Boston Bay pageant. They walked down a runway, answered questions like 'Why do you like your school?' and 'Who is your favorite person and why?' then did a group dance. It was precious.
We've been spending our nights getting to know the staff around the huts and just hanging out. Last night, we went to a Rastafarian restaurant (they only eat what comes from the earth), and I got to drink coconut milk straight from the shell! It was good, but I felt a little sick so I couldn't enjoy it as much as I usually might have. Tonight, we are watching a documentary on the economic state of Jamaica."
"The next three days in the schools went just as well, if not better, than the first. As the students got to know us better, they became more response to our methods. Tuesday was our second singing and drumming lesson for each grade, so we were able to add some really neat aspects to our lessons. For example, we sang 'By the Rivers of Babylon' with the Nyabinghi drumming patterns we learned the day before, and we added dancing to the Dinki Mini beat. In our singing lesson, we added harmonies to 'By the Rivers of Babylon,' a solo part to 'Mango Time,' layered parts to 'The Lion Sleeps Tonight,' and a round to 'Oh What a Day.'
We also were able to teach the second grade class today. The lesson was a bit different--we stood in a circle and sang classic children's songs like 'The Wheels on the Bus,' 'The Hokey Pokey,' 'If You're Happy and You Know It,' (so cute!) and 'The Itsy Bitsy Spider.' I led 'Row Row Row Your Boat' and 'Whatta Come A Mi Eye.' Then, they got to solo on the big drum for a little before playing shaker games with us.
Wednesday was just like Tuesday.
Today (Thursday), we simply did recorder lessons all day. It was difficult for a lot of kids, but I think they ended up catching onto some of the concepts and had a fun time. We've been racing a lot at recess, playing handshake games, taking lots of pictures (the kids really, really love using the crazy Snapchat filters), and just hanging out with the kids is such a blessing. And, they still love braiding our hair. so cute and this has been an amazing experience so far. They're a little hard to understand sometimes because they speak quickly and softly with an accent, but we are able to communicate well. All the kids are
They all jump up and down and are very happy when we arrive and gather around our bus to help bring in the supplies, then get very sad at the end of the day when we leave. Tomorrow will definitely be tough, because it will be our last day for good.
This week, we also got to watch some of the kids practice for the Mini Miss Boston Bay pageant. They walked down a runway, answered questions like 'Why do you like your school?' and 'Who is your favorite person and why?' then did a group dance. It was precious.We've been spending our nights getting to know the staff around the huts and just hanging out. Last night, we went to a Rastafarian restaurant (they only eat what comes from the earth), and I got to drink coconut milk straight from the shell! It was good, but I felt a little sick so I couldn't enjoy it as much as I usually might have. Tonight, we are watching a documentary on the economic state of Jamaica."
Fine, Miss. And you?
"Good morning everybody, how are you today?"
"Fine, Miss. And you?"
The first time I received that response in perfect unison from my class of third graders, I was a bit surprised. Then, as I watched the students in their classes all week, I noticed that very much of their schooling is memorization, rote learning, and recitation.
Education in Jamaica is based on the British system, which focuses on a student's ability to take in a lot of information and retain it. In contrast, in America, the focus of education is on a student's ability to take basic concepts and apply them to other areas of life, using problem-solving skills and creativity.
In fourth grade, students in Jamaica must take a literacy test. If they do not pass, they are not allowed to move on to fifth grade. And, many students do not continue past sixth grade. Attendance in school is compulsory until sixth grade, when students must take an exam to determine 1) whether they are able to continue school and 2) if they continue, what school they will attend next. Due to these crucial standardized tests, memorization is the main focus in Jamaican schools.
Corporal punishment is still legal in schools, and teachers tend to be very strict and stern towards their students. As a result, the students are very disciplined. However, because the teachers know that some students will not be able to continue their schooling, they may spend most of their time on the best students that they know have the potential to continue on in school and neglect to fully discipline the others.
It was interesting to see how the students interacted with us (American teachers). They are not used to teachers being "nice," so at first, when we were smiling and laughing with them during the lesson, they tended to get a bit out of hand. Once we better and more clearly established our role as authority figures and teachers, however, we were able to still have fun with complete control over our classrooms.
Overall, I tend to disagree with the focus on memorization and the use of corporal punishment. A classroom should be an area where ideas and discussions flow, and where teamwork and creativity among peers are encouraged to solve problems.
As a sidenote: The kids let out all their energy at recess. Oftentimes, boys will fight, and the teachers never intervene (and tell us not to intervene, either). They stand back and let the kids work out their conflicts themselves and allow them to play without too much supervision. I think that American schools could use a bit of this mindset. Kids should be allowed to run around and play and interact as kids at recess without too many restrictions and anxious adults standing by, flinching when a kid scrapes his knee on the blacktop.
Monday 6/13/2016
A journal entry:
"Today was our first day at the schools! We woke up at 7am, dressed, ate breakfast, and left by 8 after packing all the drums and supplies. The school where I am (Boston Primary School) is a two-minute car drive from the huts. It is a little, bright blue and white school with one class for each grade and all the classrooms facing in towards a small grassy courtyard where the kids play at lunch. All the rooms are wide-open to the outdoors.
We were definitely a spectacle as we walked in. The kids came up to us, were hugging us, touching us, playing with our hair, and were so excited to see us. After meeting the kids, we watched their morning devotion, which happens on Monday's and Friday's. There is no separation of church and state in Jamaica. They sing praises to God and Jesus, say prayers, and sing the National Anthem (we were able to participate in this part). The principal (a very stern, professional-looking woman) introduced us. One by one, we walked through the lines of kids as they stared at us and reached out to touch us. The principal told the kids, 'They are our guests, so be attentive and don't stress them out like you stress us out every day.' Soon, we set up outside under trees for our first lessons. Katie and I started at the singing station and Kate and Dustin started at drumming. The boys came to us first (all the boys like drumming better and all the girls like singing better, so we put them on the opposite one first, so we can use the other one as an incentive. In our singing lesson, we sang 1) The Jamaican National Anthem, 2) The Rivers of Babylon, 3) The Lion Sleeps Tonight (everyone's favorite--they loved the movements!) 4) Mango Time, and 5) Oh What a Day (my favorite!). I want to use 'Oh What a Day' in my classroom each morning to get the class off to a positive start:
Oh what a day, oh what a day
Oh what a very wonderful day.
Everything is happening
In a most miraculous way!
Big bells chime,
A bright sun shines on the city,
Shining on a miraculous day.
Cha Cha Cha!
I played guitar for the songs and I am improving every day. I wouldn't have believed it if someone told me I'd be playing guitar for a class this summer, but I love it now! This is great practicing in adapting to different and unexpected situations and rising to challenges, like I will need to do in any classroom situation. I want to use the guitar and drumming and all the techniques we're using in my private lessons back home and definitely in future classrooms. This trip has taught me so much about classroom control and management, effective and succinct teaching techniques, and other great music education tools. I feel confident in front of a group of students now more than ever and I now that I'll only get better!
For our drumming lessons, we taught the differences between Boom (a flat palm hitting the center of the drum) and Da (curved fingers hitting the rim of the drum). We learned Boom Boom Da, and Da Da Da Da Boom Boom and had a fun rhythmic competition, which we molded into a rhythmic collaboration: One group likes peanut butter and the other likes toast. 'I like peanut butter' 'I like toast!!' We also taught Dinki Mini, which a lot of the kids already knew--this beat is a big part of their culture, and either their grandparents or parents taught them the drum part or the dance. The dance involves twisting one leg in a circle and moving around in a circle.
The kids were a bit wound up in drumming, because they were so excited. Sometimes, there weren't enough drums so we had to give some of the kids shakers. This caused a few problems, but nothing that got in the way of the lesson.
At lunch, the kids crowded into our room to play with our hair and hangout. They brought us flowers, notes, candy, and lots of hugs. These kids are so full of energy and so full of love. They kept asking me what I do to my hair and if I dye it because they think it's soft and shiny and they have never seen blonde hair before. When it was time to move the drums back out to the trees where we taught, every single student wanted to help. I've never seen a group of so many kids so eager to help: 'Miss, I can carry that! May I take a drum, miss?'
The second half of the day was just as good as the first and we left feeling exhausted, but satisfied. At night, we went to Formulo's (one of the surf teachers we met) Bar on the street for a sound system party where they played Jamaican Dancehall music. Our director hired some dancers to teach us how to dance the 'Jamaican way.' We enjoyed ourselves and learned some pretty cool moves, but realized that the dancing is much, much different and much harder for us to do than for them. Many people there will practice dancing every day in order to keep up their skills, and it shows. The dancers were very, very talented!"
Sunday 6/12/2016
A journal entry:
"After eating breakfast, a bunch of us practiced drumming together, which was really fun. Then, I went off to my favorite spot (a cliff overlooking the most vast part of the ocean) to practice guitar for a little. At 12:00 noon, we left for Winnifred Beach! It was an extremely bumpy 20 minute ride to the beach.
The beach was beautiful and had a great, very relaxed and chill atmosphere. It's a public beach, so a lot of the locals were out enjoying their Sunday afternoon. We hopped in the blue, calm, warm water right away and enjoy the music coming from speakers nearby and the wonderful view straight ahead.When it was time for lunch, we went to a small hut to have our meal. I had fish (it came as a full fish, complete with all the bones and the eye. There was also festival bread, bread fruit (which tasted just like bread), grilled plantains, and other vegetables and rice. It was delicious and I tried my best to finish the entire fish and not waste anything (it was a little difficult because of all the tiny bones).
The kids decided to come snorkeling with us to 'keep us safe.' We swam together for a little and then we saw a ray. They got a little bit scared and said that we should definitely go back to shore, so we did. We left our friends, but decided to keep snorkeling on the other side of the beach.
There weren't a whole lot of fish, but it was neat to see everything under the water. We ended up taking really cool-looking pictures of each other underwater. When it was time to go, we returned our snorkel gear and got back in the van to go home, where we relaxed until dinner, the drumming circle, and our music education training session. We practiced teaching each other parts of tomorrow's lesson to get ready for our work in the schools this week."
Monday, June 20, 2016
On Machetes
The first time I saw someone walking down the street with a machete, I was alarmed. Then I saw another and I was frightened. By the third person, I realized that carrying a machete here is the norm. I didn't realize why until our hike in St. Mary's, and it made more and more sense to me as our trip progressed.
Jamaicans use machetes like Swiss Army Knives. They peel fruit with it, file their nails with it, cut things with it. They truly are an all-purpose tool. Just on the hike, I saw Lion, our tour guide, use his machete to:
Jamaicans use machetes like Swiss Army Knives. They peel fruit with it, file their nails with it, cut things with it. They truly are an all-purpose tool. Just on the hike, I saw Lion, our tour guide, use his machete to:
- Clear the path
- Cut pods/fruits/leaves off trees
- Chop fruit
- Peel fruit
- Scratch his back (I'm not kidding about this one)
And, just walking through town, I saw people cutting their grass with their machetes, using them as walking sticks, and chopping and serving chicken on the grill with them.
Of course, they also serve as a precautionary measure against thieves during the night, but that is the least of its uses. I have never seen a tool so useful to Americans as a machete is to Jamaicans.
Saturday 6/11/2016
A journal entry:
"Today we woke up early, ate breakfast, and drove on a bumpy road for two hours to get to St. Mary's, the parish where we are hiking. The road was long and bumpy and we drove deep into rural Jamaica. We arrived at a guesthouse where we stopped for the bathroom and got our packed lunches (sandwiches with turkey, lettuce, and Velveeta cheese--extremely common here). Then, we started the hike.
We hiked through the jungle with our guides. Our main guide, Lion (a Rastafarian with long dreadlocks), knew every single plant and its uses, as well as all the fruit trees. He walked with his machete (everyone here carries a machete) and cleared the path while pointing out all the different plants and trees. He showed us antidotes for drawing out poison, anti-itch leaves for bug bites, and burn bush (burns off your skin if you have warts). My favorite food we tried was the meat inside of chocolate plants. We reached inside the shell to pull out a bit of white, gooey meat that tasted sweet and fruity with a bit of tang. Inside the meat was a pit (cocoa beans) which we had to spit out. By the end, I could taste the tiniest bit of chocolate.
The hike was fun, and was through a lot of difficult terrain. Lion did not wear shoes--he had a callous covering his entire food. I asked him if he ever wore shoes before and he said no. He gets his energy from the ground and if he wore shoes, how would he get his energy?
There were a lot of beautiful look-outs. When we reached the black sand beach in the middle of the hike, we ate lunch under a hut. When the break was over, we hiked about another mile to the falls. It was tricky getting there, but the falls were indescribably beautiful. The falls themselves looked like cascades of snow coming off the rocky cliff. The pool under the falls was a clear, pristine blue. We waded in right away and swam out to the falls, under them, and behind them.
We explored a bit, and just tried to internalize the beauty of the place and keep it in our memories. My favorite view of the falls was laying on my back and looking up at the falls upside down.
When we got out, we ate fresh fruit--watermelon, papaya, and passionfruit (my favorite, it was yellow and very tangy) that Lion picked on the way and chopped up with his machete. We ate the fruit and sat watching the falls for a little while longer. The hike back wasn't as long as the way there, but it was still pretty. By the end, we were extremely hot and sweaty. We hiked a total of nine miles. Most of us slept on the ride home.
We went straight to dinner (our very first pasta dish!) and it tasted incredibly good after the hike. The training sessions at night were even more fun than the first day now that we know each other and know the basics. Later, we all met up to chat and hangout until bed. The group on the trip is so nice and I cannot wait to begin working with them!"
"Today we woke up early, ate breakfast, and drove on a bumpy road for two hours to get to St. Mary's, the parish where we are hiking. The road was long and bumpy and we drove deep into rural Jamaica. We arrived at a guesthouse where we stopped for the bathroom and got our packed lunches (sandwiches with turkey, lettuce, and Velveeta cheese--extremely common here). Then, we started the hike.
We hiked through the jungle with our guides. Our main guide, Lion (a Rastafarian with long dreadlocks), knew every single plant and its uses, as well as all the fruit trees. He walked with his machete (everyone here carries a machete) and cleared the path while pointing out all the different plants and trees. He showed us antidotes for drawing out poison, anti-itch leaves for bug bites, and burn bush (burns off your skin if you have warts). My favorite food we tried was the meat inside of chocolate plants. We reached inside the shell to pull out a bit of white, gooey meat that tasted sweet and fruity with a bit of tang. Inside the meat was a pit (cocoa beans) which we had to spit out. By the end, I could taste the tiniest bit of chocolate.
The hike was fun, and was through a lot of difficult terrain. Lion did not wear shoes--he had a callous covering his entire food. I asked him if he ever wore shoes before and he said no. He gets his energy from the ground and if he wore shoes, how would he get his energy?
We explored a bit, and just tried to internalize the beauty of the place and keep it in our memories. My favorite view of the falls was laying on my back and looking up at the falls upside down.
 |
| Passionfruit by the falls |
We went straight to dinner (our very first pasta dish!) and it tasted incredibly good after the hike. The training sessions at night were even more fun than the first day now that we know each other and know the basics. Later, we all met up to chat and hangout until bed. The group on the trip is so nice and I cannot wait to begin working with them!"
On Driving
The driving here is insane. After we all loaded onto the bus (the very long, tall, and wide bus), we rocketed down the street on the left side of the road at a speed that I don't think I've ever driven in a car. In the moment, my heart was racing too fast to calculate kilometers per hour to miles per hour or to even figure out which one would be higher, so I have absolutely no idea how fast we were truly speeding. All I know is it was fast. Really fast.
Within a few minutes, we came upon a car that was probably going a reasonable speed. But without breaking, and with cars coming the other way, our driver veered over into the other side of the road, sped around a corner, and went back into the left lane with milliseconds to spare before we got hit head-on by a semi truck.
I thought at first that maybe we just had a crazy, thrill-seeking driver. Yet, as time went on, I noticed that everyone drives this way. You are allowed to pass on any road and it seems as though speed limits don't apply.
The remarkable thing is that, the whole time I was there, I never saw any accidents or any roadkill. I've concluded that Jamaican drivers are gifted. To be able to navigate the windy, hilly, rocky terrain while speeding and veering to avoid goats and other cars is truly a talent.
Within a few minutes, we came upon a car that was probably going a reasonable speed. But without breaking, and with cars coming the other way, our driver veered over into the other side of the road, sped around a corner, and went back into the left lane with milliseconds to spare before we got hit head-on by a semi truck.
I thought at first that maybe we just had a crazy, thrill-seeking driver. Yet, as time went on, I noticed that everyone drives this way. You are allowed to pass on any road and it seems as though speed limits don't apply.
The remarkable thing is that, the whole time I was there, I never saw any accidents or any roadkill. I've concluded that Jamaican drivers are gifted. To be able to navigate the windy, hilly, rocky terrain while speeding and veering to avoid goats and other cars is truly a talent.
Friday 6/10/2016
A journal entry:
"Yesterday I arrived in Jamaica for the Jamaica Field Service Project. After many hours at the airport and on a plane, we all met outside the airport in Montego Bay and loaded into two buses to ride to the guesthouse. We rode about one hour until we stopped for dinner at the Ultimate Jerk Centre. I decided to be adventurous and try curry goat. It was kind of a weird, soft texture and a strange green color, but it was good. The texture was mushy and I just kept thinking about how I ate a goat. And the rest of the ride, I thought about that whenever I saw a goat (there were tons of them, all over).
After we stopped for dinner, we still had about three hours of driving to do. It got dark pretty early (due to the time change--one hour back) and the ride was long and bumpy. The poverty here is widespread. Many of the old, rand houses that must have belonged to the rich and affluent at one point are left abandoned. Every house has steel grates covering every opening to protect from burglars. It was interesting to drive through the entirety (almost--we drove completely across the island) of Jamaica and see the differences from parish to parish. We are in Portland, which is very rural, very lush and beautiful, and very poor. We drove through some cities and larger towns to get here, and there is a lot of poverty there as well--many people live in shacks.
We arrived at the Great Huts in Boston Bay at 8:00pm, got settled into our rooms, had a meeting and got to hangout and meet everyone. The huts are located at the end of a small street with shops and vendors lining the sides. We are staying right in town and it is really neat to be so immersed in the culture--we're not getting the typical "tourist" experience. Kate and I are rooming in a tee hut called "Lemba." You walk up a very steep set of wooden stairs to reach the hut, which has two twin beds (with mosquito netting) and is completely open on all four sides--there are tarp-like cloths we can put over the windows, but otherwise, we are completely open to the wilderness. After searching for critters (we only found a few termites), we went down to the meeting, then chatted with the other people on the trip and the very friendly staff here.
It is incredibly hot and humid, and I have been sweating nonstop since arriving! It got a little chillier when we slept, and I ended up under my covers. The noises of the tree frogs were soothing and we slept in complete blackness in the complete wilderness (on top of a tree in the jungle!). You can also hear the ocean waves in the distance. it is very peaceful here.
Today, we had a free day to explore, enjoy the beach, and recuperate from our flights. We woke up early (around 5:40) because the sun was brightly shining into our hut. We slept on and off until 7:45, when we went to a group breakfast in the main hut. We had the famous hand roasted, fresh Blue Mountain coffee (delicious!) with toast, a vegetable omelet, and fresh fruit (watermelon, pineapple, and papaya). They also served freshly squeezed orange juice. Eric, our trip director, took us on a tour of the grounds and the town, after we exchanged our US dollars to Jamaican ones. $1 US is about $110 JA.
Everyone in the town knows our director very well and they exchanged handshakes, greetings in Patois, and a lot of 'Respect, man.' Everyone tried to get our attention and told us to come to their stand for lunch. Eventually, we made our way to the Boston Bay Public Beach. We met and talked with the locals who all promised that they are the best surfing teachers. We told them we'd come back.
When we got back to the hut, a group of us decided to head down to our private beach. We immediately got in the water, which was the perfect temperature and a beautiful shade of blue. The waves were gentle past the tide and it's fun just floating over them and staring off into the horizon--nothing but ocean as far as you can see. We relaxed and some people jumped off the cliff into the water (I might do this later).
The locals from the beach came over offering surf lessons. After watching a few people try, I decided to give it a go for myself. My instructor's name was JJ and he was really friendly and a good teacher. We went to the beach and he showed me how to go from laying on the board on my stomach to standing up (basically a quick pushup into a wide sideways lunge/squat). We practiced this three times, then he said I was ready and that it was 'really easy.' I was a bit skeptical, but he was right.
I fell pretty early on the first wave, but I knew exactly what I needed to do for the second. The rest of the times, I was able to stand up and actually surf! One time, I made it all the way to shore! It was awesome and I want to try it again at some point. I'm not sure if I could do it by myself (JJ pushed me into the good waves), but it was so neat to do.
After surfing, we went to the Jerk Center for lunch. We chose a stand (this was hard because there were about five Jerk stands all vying for our business). I ordered 1/4 Jerk chicken and festival bread (the Jerk chicken is basically spicy barbecue, and the festival bread tastes like fried dough and is tube-shaped). We made friends with some guys at the stand (Jamaicans) who invited us to go dancing with everyone in the town on Sunday--we're planning on it. A nice lady ushered us onto her porch and let us eat there, saying it's her job to take good care of us. We talked and ate, and she packed up our leftovers for us (Jamaicans do not waste anything) and told us she'd have passionfruit juice for us tomorrow. We went down to the beach to pay the surfers, then sampled free juices from another vendor (we bought some for $100J, too).
When we were done exploring town and talking to the locals and vendors, we went back to the hut and went to the swimming pool, which is on the edge of a cliff. We relaxed, talked, and marveled at the view. We went down to the beach when we were done and Kate and I bought bracelets from the vendor there. He had long dreadlocks and a very heavy accent, which made haggling confusing, but I got two coral bracelets and a friendship bracelet for $2000J (I think I was ripped off, but I just need more practice haggling). Later I discovered a walking path along the cliff that leads to a chair swing, perfect for writing--that's where I am now.
After dinner, we all sat in a circle for drumming basics--we learned 'booms' and 'das' and different drumming styles from across the island. It was so fun! We broke up into group sessions--therapy and music ed--for training. Music ed went went up to Eric's porch. We just sang through all the songs and learned the movements for 'The Lion Sleeps Tonight.' They needed an extra guitar player, so I volunteered. I'm very excited to have this opportunity to practice and get better!
After training, we went to a platform on the cliff by the sea to watch the stars. There were so many and it was fun hanging out with all the music ed people on the trip (just seven of us). We talked about so many things, but the most interesting things was definitely concepts of sound, which I definitely want to study and learn more about. I never thought about it too deeply, but all of us had completely different concepts (I think in colors, but other people think of sound in different ways-- in terms of personalities, shapes, textures, feelings, taste, sensations, settings/landscapes, stories, lines and shapes, motions, temperature, and even bodily functions). It gives me so much to think about for teaching in the future and I'm excited to look more into this topic."
"Yesterday I arrived in Jamaica for the Jamaica Field Service Project. After many hours at the airport and on a plane, we all met outside the airport in Montego Bay and loaded into two buses to ride to the guesthouse. We rode about one hour until we stopped for dinner at the Ultimate Jerk Centre. I decided to be adventurous and try curry goat. It was kind of a weird, soft texture and a strange green color, but it was good. The texture was mushy and I just kept thinking about how I ate a goat. And the rest of the ride, I thought about that whenever I saw a goat (there were tons of them, all over).
 |
| Our tree hut |
It is incredibly hot and humid, and I have been sweating nonstop since arriving! It got a little chillier when we slept, and I ended up under my covers. The noises of the tree frogs were soothing and we slept in complete blackness in the complete wilderness (on top of a tree in the jungle!). You can also hear the ocean waves in the distance. it is very peaceful here.
Today, we had a free day to explore, enjoy the beach, and recuperate from our flights. We woke up early (around 5:40) because the sun was brightly shining into our hut. We slept on and off until 7:45, when we went to a group breakfast in the main hut. We had the famous hand roasted, fresh Blue Mountain coffee (delicious!) with toast, a vegetable omelet, and fresh fruit (watermelon, pineapple, and papaya). They also served freshly squeezed orange juice. Eric, our trip director, took us on a tour of the grounds and the town, after we exchanged our US dollars to Jamaican ones. $1 US is about $110 JA.
Everyone in the town knows our director very well and they exchanged handshakes, greetings in Patois, and a lot of 'Respect, man.' Everyone tried to get our attention and told us to come to their stand for lunch. Eventually, we made our way to the Boston Bay Public Beach. We met and talked with the locals who all promised that they are the best surfing teachers. We told them we'd come back.
When we got back to the hut, a group of us decided to head down to our private beach. We immediately got in the water, which was the perfect temperature and a beautiful shade of blue. The waves were gentle past the tide and it's fun just floating over them and staring off into the horizon--nothing but ocean as far as you can see. We relaxed and some people jumped off the cliff into the water (I might do this later).
The locals from the beach came over offering surf lessons. After watching a few people try, I decided to give it a go for myself. My instructor's name was JJ and he was really friendly and a good teacher. We went to the beach and he showed me how to go from laying on the board on my stomach to standing up (basically a quick pushup into a wide sideways lunge/squat). We practiced this three times, then he said I was ready and that it was 'really easy.' I was a bit skeptical, but he was right.
I fell pretty early on the first wave, but I knew exactly what I needed to do for the second. The rest of the times, I was able to stand up and actually surf! One time, I made it all the way to shore! It was awesome and I want to try it again at some point. I'm not sure if I could do it by myself (JJ pushed me into the good waves), but it was so neat to do.
After surfing, we went to the Jerk Center for lunch. We chose a stand (this was hard because there were about five Jerk stands all vying for our business). I ordered 1/4 Jerk chicken and festival bread (the Jerk chicken is basically spicy barbecue, and the festival bread tastes like fried dough and is tube-shaped). We made friends with some guys at the stand (Jamaicans) who invited us to go dancing with everyone in the town on Sunday--we're planning on it. A nice lady ushered us onto her porch and let us eat there, saying it's her job to take good care of us. We talked and ate, and she packed up our leftovers for us (Jamaicans do not waste anything) and told us she'd have passionfruit juice for us tomorrow. We went down to the beach to pay the surfers, then sampled free juices from another vendor (we bought some for $100J, too).
When we were done exploring town and talking to the locals and vendors, we went back to the hut and went to the swimming pool, which is on the edge of a cliff. We relaxed, talked, and marveled at the view. We went down to the beach when we were done and Kate and I bought bracelets from the vendor there. He had long dreadlocks and a very heavy accent, which made haggling confusing, but I got two coral bracelets and a friendship bracelet for $2000J (I think I was ripped off, but I just need more practice haggling). Later I discovered a walking path along the cliff that leads to a chair swing, perfect for writing--that's where I am now.
After dinner, we all sat in a circle for drumming basics--we learned 'booms' and 'das' and different drumming styles from across the island. It was so fun! We broke up into group sessions--therapy and music ed--for training. Music ed went went up to Eric's porch. We just sang through all the songs and learned the movements for 'The Lion Sleeps Tonight.' They needed an extra guitar player, so I volunteered. I'm very excited to have this opportunity to practice and get better!
After training, we went to a platform on the cliff by the sea to watch the stars. There were so many and it was fun hanging out with all the music ed people on the trip (just seven of us). We talked about so many things, but the most interesting things was definitely concepts of sound, which I definitely want to study and learn more about. I never thought about it too deeply, but all of us had completely different concepts (I think in colors, but other people think of sound in different ways-- in terms of personalities, shapes, textures, feelings, taste, sensations, settings/landscapes, stories, lines and shapes, motions, temperature, and even bodily functions). It gives me so much to think about for teaching in the future and I'm excited to look more into this topic."
Overview
For the past ten days, I have been living and working in the rural village of Boston Bay, located in the parish of Portland, Jamaica. I traveled with 21 other music education students from all across the United States, and we were so fortunate to be able to be completely immersed in Jamaican culture. When I told family and friends that I would be heading to Jamaica, I got one of two reactions: 1) "Oh my goodness, that is so so exciting! Which resort?" or 2) "Be very, very careful...it's dangerous to travel over there."
I can definitely say that both of these reactions made me a bit apprehensive in different ways. The first made me anxious because I knew that I would not be staying in a resort or experiencing the Jamaica that these people knew of. There would be no swim-up bar or air conditioning or room service. I knew that I would not be staying in luxury, and that I would be interacting with Jamaicans, not tourists. A vacation at a resort is predictable (you know exactly what you're getting into, and you know it will be relaxing). A service trip is much different. In short, I had no clue what I was getting myself into, and that made me nervous.
The second reaction made me anxious because I had heard countless times that Jamaica was not safe. I heard that women could not walk alone at any time of day, that the extreme levels of poverty made the place riddled with crime, that two people from the Lehigh Valley had just been murdered in Kingston, Jamaica while on a service trip. The book I read before the trip, "Going Home to Teach" by Anthony C. Winkler made me believe all of these things, too (the book covered the descent of Jamaica into socialism during the 1970s and the political unrest that ensued as a result). So, all of these tidbits of information definitely made me apprehensive about the trip.
However, upon arrival and during my stay, I can confidently say that very few of my preconceptions about Jamaica and its culture were correct (at least in Boston Bay). Yes, there is widespread poverty and people make next to nothing (the average person in Jamaica makes $15 a day). But, they do not want for very much, their communities are very close-knit, and they find joy in little everyday occurrences. They do not hate Americans or tourists. Many Jamaicans are happy when they have visitors to give them more business.
During my entire visit, I never felt concerned for my safety or the safety of those traveling with me. Our neighbors welcomed us with open arms and allowed us to become a part of their village for our ten days there. We got to know the locals very well and looked forward to our daily visits to the Jerk Center (to get Jerk Chicken and Festival Bread), the fruit stand (the pineapple was divine), and the ice cream shop (flavors included rum and coffee, grapenut, and dragon stoudt). We exchanged special Jamaican handshakes with everyone we saw on the street (a fist bump with our thumbs snapping together or elbow bumps) and greetings of "Wah gwaan" (Patois for "what's going on?") and "Respect."
At the end of the trip, I concluded that no culture is better or worse than another, they are simply different. Throughout this blog, I hope to recount my experiences in Jamaica and document what I've learned about the Jamaican lifestyle and culture. Through journal entries, pictures, notes, and souvenirs, I have so many pieces of Jamaica that will stay with me through my entire life, and I would love to share them all with you here.
I can definitely say that both of these reactions made me a bit apprehensive in different ways. The first made me anxious because I knew that I would not be staying in a resort or experiencing the Jamaica that these people knew of. There would be no swim-up bar or air conditioning or room service. I knew that I would not be staying in luxury, and that I would be interacting with Jamaicans, not tourists. A vacation at a resort is predictable (you know exactly what you're getting into, and you know it will be relaxing). A service trip is much different. In short, I had no clue what I was getting myself into, and that made me nervous.
The second reaction made me anxious because I had heard countless times that Jamaica was not safe. I heard that women could not walk alone at any time of day, that the extreme levels of poverty made the place riddled with crime, that two people from the Lehigh Valley had just been murdered in Kingston, Jamaica while on a service trip. The book I read before the trip, "Going Home to Teach" by Anthony C. Winkler made me believe all of these things, too (the book covered the descent of Jamaica into socialism during the 1970s and the political unrest that ensued as a result). So, all of these tidbits of information definitely made me apprehensive about the trip.
However, upon arrival and during my stay, I can confidently say that very few of my preconceptions about Jamaica and its culture were correct (at least in Boston Bay). Yes, there is widespread poverty and people make next to nothing (the average person in Jamaica makes $15 a day). But, they do not want for very much, their communities are very close-knit, and they find joy in little everyday occurrences. They do not hate Americans or tourists. Many Jamaicans are happy when they have visitors to give them more business.
During my entire visit, I never felt concerned for my safety or the safety of those traveling with me. Our neighbors welcomed us with open arms and allowed us to become a part of their village for our ten days there. We got to know the locals very well and looked forward to our daily visits to the Jerk Center (to get Jerk Chicken and Festival Bread), the fruit stand (the pineapple was divine), and the ice cream shop (flavors included rum and coffee, grapenut, and dragon stoudt). We exchanged special Jamaican handshakes with everyone we saw on the street (a fist bump with our thumbs snapping together or elbow bumps) and greetings of "Wah gwaan" (Patois for "what's going on?") and "Respect."
At the end of the trip, I concluded that no culture is better or worse than another, they are simply different. Throughout this blog, I hope to recount my experiences in Jamaica and document what I've learned about the Jamaican lifestyle and culture. Through journal entries, pictures, notes, and souvenirs, I have so many pieces of Jamaica that will stay with me through my entire life, and I would love to share them all with you here.
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