Final Thoughts

The past eleven days in Portland, Jamaica have been arguably the most rewarding, eye-opening, incredible days of my life.  It was a true adventure, and I am so grateful for all the amazing friends I've met who all share the same passion for music.  The best part, without a doubt, was going into the schools and meeting the energetic, kind, helpful, loving students and sharing music with them.  I already miss them so much!  Saying goodbye to them was so difficult.  I am so happy that we had the chance to bring more music and cheer to their already cheerful school.  They've taught us so much--from showing us new games at recess to showing us how to better care and love for one another.  We will surely remember this week forever and I will miss these kiddos with their contagious energy and their contagious smiles so much.  This trip was definitely unforgettable, and I am so grateful to have had this incredible opportunity.     

Daily Grub

The fruit stand on our street--my favorite was the pineapple and papaya!

Rastafarian all-natural meal from Sazy's [from top left, counterclockwise]: rice, soy chunks, ackee (kind of like scrambled eggs), and bread fruit (tastes exactly like bread!)

Drinking from a coconut

My first meal--curry goat with rice.  It turned my mouth green!

A typical meal from the Jerk Center on our street--festival bread (like fried tubes of dough) and 1/4 jerk chicken (like spicy barbecue) 

Jerk pork and pumpkin rice

A fancier version of jerk chicken and festival

A fancier version of curry goat with rice

A passionfruit (so tangy and delicious!) that we picked in the jungle

Festival bread, fish, roasted plantains, mixed greens, potatoes and carrots, and bread fruit

Saturday 6/13/2016

A journal entry:

"Today's our last day here.  I can't believe it--it doesn't feel real.  The whole trip feels like a blur, a crazy whirlwind.  This morning, after ackee and sawfish for breakfast, we headed to Port Antonio to visit the shops there.

The shops at Port Antonio

The shops were great.  It was an indoor/outdoor market, with a lot of very touristy stands (many of the vendors were selling the same t-shirts, keychains, etc).  I ended up getting some really neat souvenirs and gifts: 1) A cheap wooden flute, 2) A shaker, 3) A tiny djembe drum, 4) A bracelet for my mom, 5) A keychain for my brother, 6) Leather 'slippers' (sandals) for my sister, and 7) Mixed CD's.

Getting the mixtapes was my favorite part.  We left the main market area and crossed the street to enter a small shop where many people were stannic around, listening to music played by the shipowner.  He was dancing around, really feeling the music.  When we walked in, he started telling us about all the genres of music prevalent in Jamaica today (i.e. dance hall, t-culture), artists (i.e. Vibes Kartel, the most influential Jamaican musician since Bob Marley, who is the leader of dance hall music and is miles ahead of any other artist--he is recording all of his songs from jail because he murdered someone), and the meanings of the songs (some are political, others are just made for dancing).  I ended up getting three CD's for $300J, an amazing price

When we got back to the huts, we went to the fruit stand up the street (I got fresh pineapple) and to the jerk center to get festival bread.  We ate our food in the huts (I saved some of it for breakfast tomorrow).  After packing, I headed down to the beach.  We swam for a while and talked to some surfers, and admired the incredibly blue water.  Later, I did yoga on my favorite cliff (the most serene practice I have ever completed), passed the drum test, and ate curry goat for dinner.

We have our drum performance tonight, then our trip is over.  I can't believe it went so, so fast.  I just stood on the cliff trying to take it all in today because I can honestly say, I've never seen a view so breathtakingly beautiful.  Watching the vast sea from up here is incredibly powerful--it really puts into perspective how small we are; God made an amazing creation.  I can almost feel God up here, and I am awestruck.

Update: the drumming went really well! We took our drums into town and set up by the jerk shops in a  circle.  We handed out egg shakers to the crowd of local families who came to watch--the whole town was there.  We played the rhythms we practiced--Nyabinghi, Dinki mini, Etu, Kuku, Kpanlogo, and Bruckins and sang a few favorite traditional Jamaican songs ('If I had the wings of a dove,' 'Hold 'em, Joe,' 'By the Rivers of Babylon,' 'Mango Time,' 'Solace Market--Fie go buy banana,' 'Go down Emmanuel Road,' and we finished with the National Anthem, which got a lot of enthusiastic applause).  The performance was exhilarating (I played on my brand new, handmade Nyabinghi drum) and it was an amazing way to end the trip."

Thoughts about cultural music vs. music education in Jamaica

Music is so prevalent in Jamaican culture.  Drummers have an elevated social status over normal citizens, and they use song and dance in ceremonies, celebrations, and church.  The styles of drumming and singing all have such a rich cultural background, stemming from the traditions of their African ancestors, and musical figures in society are revered.  

In fact, the number one producer of Dance Hall music in Jamaica (and the most successful Jamaican musician next to Bob Marley), Vibes Kartel, is currently in jail for murder.  However, he is allowed to record new music from jail because the Jamaicans view him as crucial to the Dance Hall genre.  From the recording studio in jail, Kartel produces new music that speaks openly about many controversial political and social problems of the present day. 

In Jamaica, music is what brings people together and allows people to tell their stories, discuss politics and raise awareness for social issues, and celebrate.  On our street in Boston Bay, people got together to dance every night.  They set up a sound system with a DJ and welcomed us visitors into their festivities and taught us how to dance in the "Jamaican way." 

On our hike in St. Mary's, our tour guide Lion sang the entire time about everything he saw and everything he thought.  If we passed a papaya tree, he sang about papayas.  If we passed an antidote plant, he would sing about antidotes.  Often, he would see something neat and sing "Check it out, yuh wanna check it out" for minutes at a time.  When we got to the falls, he sang about their beauty.  When someone laughed, he sang "Whatcha laughing about, why do you laugh so?"

He asked at one point if someone else in the group had anything to sing about.  We got shy, avoided eye contact, and said no.  Later, I was able to talk with Lion one-on-one. He told me that Americans have to think to much to sing...they are often afraid to be vulnerable and sing without a plan or without notes on a page.  Jamaicans, he said, just sing what's on their mind.  Singing allows them to release tension and lets them be honest with those around them.  It is healing.

Many students on my trip study music therapy.  After long days working at the infirmary or at the homeless shelter, they would come back refreshed and satisfied.  They said that music therapy is so much easier and progress comes so much more quickly in Jamaica because Jamaicans already believe in the process.  They believe in their hearts that music has healing powers.  

With music having a huge presence in Jamaican culture, I am so surprised that schools do not have any music classes.  The students sing during their morning devotion, but other than that, they have no exposure to music throughout the school day.  Some students learn from their parents or grandparents, or take drum lessons.  Most do not.  While teaching, I noticed that many of the students had a natural affinity for music, and had very good rhythm.  It is clear that the music is inside of them (it runs through their veins).   I cannot even imagine the kinds of wonderful things these kids could be able to do with a music program.  Yet, there is no money for extra classes in these schools.

At the end of the trip, we gave donations (3 drums and a box of recorders) to the school.  They were so grateful and said they would try to keep music going.  The principal said she knows that music is an important supplement to her students' education, but never knew before how to implement it, or where to get the funds.  Hopefully, they will put these donations to good use.  I hope that the older kids pass on the drumming they learned to the younger kids and that they take out the recorders every once in a while to play "Hot Cross Buns."  I hope that the passion for music that runs in their blood gives them an outlet when money runs low or other hard times come upon them.  Most of all, I hope that these kids never forget the week that we brought music into their school, because I know that I will never forget the week that they brought joy to us.  

Friday 6/17/2016

A journal entry:

"Today was our very last day in the schools.  We arrived, greeted the kids, and attended their morning devotion.  Then, we set up under our trees for our only lesson of the day--one lesson for the little kids attending the basic school next door.  The kids were 4-5 years old, and the lesson was very much fun. I played the guitar and ran shaker activities.

Then, we brought our donations to the principal (we donated three drums and a box of recorders so they can hopefully establish some sort of music program).  She was so incredibly excited and grateful. She could not believe that we were leaving some of the instruments with the school and couldn't sop thanking us and hugging us.  She said they will definitely use everything (especially the recorders) to keep music going in their school, and welcomed us back anytime.  I would love to come back sometime to see if they are successful in putting bits of music in their curriculum and even help the teachers figure out ways to use music in their classrooms.

When our driver came, we had to say goodbye to the kids, which was so sad.  They kept asking us when we were going to come back, and it was so hard to tell them, 'maybe never.'  We got a lot of hugs and notes and cute goodbye's and I teared up a little.  I'll never forget them and their energy and zest for life, as well as their unwavering love and helpfulness.  They are truly incredible kids.  I would love to come back, but I honestly don't know if I will ever get the chance again.

Where we ate

After school, we went to lunch at an excellent sit-down jerk place that looked over the town of Boston Bay.  I had jerk chicken, festival bread, and fruit punch.

Later, we went down to the beach to relax and swim.  Laura and I swam across the bay to the caves on the other side.  We couldn't explore because it was too treacherous over there, but we saw the caves and they were really neat.  The swim back was a bit taxing, and I spent the afternoon laying in a hammock and accidentally falling asleep under the trees.  It was wonderful.

Kumina drummers

Tonight, after dinner and drumming, Eric is bringing in Kumina drummers to us--drummers that play in nine-night (wake) ceremonies.   The ceremonies are parties/celebrations in the yard of the deceased person that include the whole village and involve a lot of dancing.  The Kumina drummers play all night long, with no rest.  Before playing, they sprinkle the drums with white rum (their equivalent of Holy water) and rub it on their hands.  The beat they play exists only in the Portland and St. Thomas parishes of Jamaica, and nowhere else in the world.  The beat is known to bring people into a trance-like state called a Myal, during which it is said that the deceased person's spirit takes over the entranced person and makes them do crazy, sometimes super-human things (i.e. climb trees backwards, eat glass).  The beat is repetitive and has hypnotic powers--especially because it is played all  night long.

Eric said he was playing at a set-up for a nine-night one time and felt woozy, so he left the drum to rest.  The grieving widow came up to him and said, 'We knew this would happen?' 'Why?' 'Because my husband didn't like white men.'  This culture and their customs and beliefs are so intriguing and I am excited to experience the Kumina drumming tradition tonight."

Later...

"The Kumina drummers were amazing.  The night was so fun.  They set up with two people sitting on drums across from each other  One of them played the same rhythm over and over:

The lower pitch was an open drum.  The higher pitch was created when the player placed his foot on the edge of the head of the drum to raise the sound.  The other drummer soloed the whole time.  The solo drummer is said to be completely responsible for the action of the deceased person's spirit.  Then, there was a person sitting behind the solo drum, playing this rhythm on the sides of the back of the drum with sticks (Catta Sticks):

And, there were two people playing that same rhythm on shakers.  There was also a blind man playing a grater on the same rhythm.  They were all singing, and the words basically meant 'leave us alone, duppie (spirit), because you are dead.'  The final element is dancing.  There were people dancing all around in a circle around the drummers.

One of the Jamaican men (an older shaker player with very baggy clothes) pulled me into the circle to dance.  He was very much fun to dance with and spun me around a lot.  After I finished dancing with him, I stayed on the dance floor (without shoes--no one was wearing them) and danced with everyone in a group  The Jamaican girls joined us and tried to teach us their moves.  It was the most fun I've ever had dancing!  It was such a fun night.  I wore a flowy skirt that was so fun to dance and twirl in.  The night was truly a blast."

Tuesday 6/14/2016 to Thursday 6/16/2016

A journal entry:

"The next three days in the schools went just as well, if not better, than the first.  As the students got to know us better, they became more response to our methods.  Tuesday was our second singing and drumming lesson for each grade, so we were able to add some really neat aspects to our lessons.  For example, we sang 'By the Rivers of Babylon' with the Nyabinghi drumming patterns we learned the day before, and we added dancing to the Dinki Mini beat.  In our singing lesson, we added harmonies to 'By the Rivers of Babylon,' a solo part to 'Mango Time,' layered parts to 'The Lion Sleeps Tonight,' and a round to 'Oh What a Day.'

We also were able to teach the second grade class today.  The lesson was a bit different--we stood in a circle and sang classic children's songs like 'The Wheels on the Bus,' 'The Hokey Pokey,' 'If You're Happy and You Know It,' (so cute!) and 'The Itsy Bitsy Spider.'  I led 'Row Row Row Your Boat' and 'Whatta Come A Mi Eye.'  Then, they got to solo on the big drum for a little before playing shaker games with us.

Wednesday was just like Tuesday.

Today (Thursday), we simply did recorder lessons all day.  It was difficult for a lot of kids, but I think they ended up catching onto some of the concepts and had a fun time.  We've been racing a lot at recess, playing handshake games, taking lots of pictures (the kids really, really love using the crazy Snapchat filters), and just hanging out with the kids is such a blessing.  And, they still love braiding our hair.  so cute and this has been an amazing experience so far.

They're a little hard to understand sometimes because they speak quickly and softly with an accent, but we are able to communicate well.  All the kids are

They all jump up and down and are very happy when we arrive and gather around our bus to help bring in the supplies, then get very sad at the end of the day when we leave.  Tomorrow will definitely be tough, because it will be our last day for good.

This week, we also got to watch some of the kids practice for the Mini Miss Boston Bay pageant.  They walked down a runway, answered questions like 'Why do you like your school?' and 'Who is your favorite person and why?' then did a group dance.  It was precious.

We've been spending our nights getting to know the staff around the huts and just hanging out.  Last night, we went to a Rastafarian restaurant (they only eat what comes from the earth), and I got to drink coconut milk straight from the shell!  It was good, but I felt a little sick so I couldn't enjoy it as much as I usually might have.  Tonight, we are watching a documentary on the economic state of Jamaica."

Fine, Miss. And you?

"Good morning everybody, how are you today?"

"Fine, Miss. And you?"

The first time I received that response in perfect unison from my class of third graders, I was a bit surprised.  Then, as I watched the students in their classes all week, I noticed that very much of their schooling is memorization, rote learning, and recitation.  

Education in Jamaica is based on the British system, which focuses on a student's ability to take in a lot of information and retain it.  In contrast, in America, the focus of education is on a student's ability to take basic concepts and apply them to other areas of life, using problem-solving skills and creativity. 

In fourth grade, students in Jamaica must take a literacy test.  If they do not pass, they are not allowed to move on to fifth grade.  And, many students do not continue past sixth grade.  Attendance in school is compulsory until sixth grade, when students must take an exam to determine 1) whether they are able to continue school and 2) if they continue, what school they will attend next.  Due to these crucial standardized tests, memorization is the main focus in Jamaican schools.  

Corporal punishment is still legal in schools, and teachers tend to be very strict and stern towards their students.  As a result, the students are very disciplined.  However, because the teachers know that some students will not be able to continue their schooling, they may spend most of their time on the best students that they know have the potential to continue on in school and neglect to fully discipline the others.  

It was interesting to see how the students interacted with us (American teachers).  They are not used to teachers being "nice," so at first, when we were smiling and laughing with them during the lesson, they tended to get a bit out of hand.  Once we better and more clearly established our role as authority figures and teachers, however, we were able to still have fun with complete control over our classrooms.  

Overall, I tend to disagree with the focus on memorization and the use of corporal punishment.  A classroom should be an area where ideas and discussions flow, and where teamwork and creativity among peers are encouraged to solve problems.  

As a sidenote: The kids let out all their energy at recess.  Oftentimes, boys will fight, and the teachers never intervene (and tell us not to intervene, either).  They stand back and let the kids work out their conflicts themselves and allow them to play without too much supervision.  I think that American schools could use a bit of this mindset.  Kids should be allowed to run around and play and interact as kids at recess without too many restrictions and anxious adults standing by, flinching when a kid scrapes his knee on the blacktop.